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Food mesmerizes me, because I see in its creativity the parallel of poetry and music. There are more or less a given number of key ingredients to work with, but an infinite number of ways to combine them. When it works out, it’s magic, no less worthy than a grand masterpiece by Bach or a… Continue reading The Pescatarian: A heavenly supper (9.6) →
Head Chef Agustin Balbi was born in Argentina, but spent time exploring culinary techniques in Japan. One could easily tell the latter’s influence by his focus on attentively adorned small plates, substantial use of raw fish and seafood delicacies as well as the combination of common South American and Japanese ingredients. The Argentinian character, however,… Continue reading Andō: Solid, but lacks wow factor (8.3) →
Readers who know me probably know that I am not big on sushi. I often felt that the combination of fish and rice was not greater than its parts alone. I miss out on the minute details of either if I have to take them together in one bite. That, and the fact that I… Continue reading Sushi Mamoru: Still phenomenal (9.5) →
I have had Xinrongji in Shanghai before the pandemic as a business treat, and then again in Hong Kong, but I was very pleased to visit it again with friends, where I could be forgiven for photographing during the meal’s most eagerly anticipated moments. The food was wonderful and we all mindfully savored the meal… Continue reading Xinrongji: Well-deserved Michelin star (9.3) →
Jean May is named after Chef Tiffany Lo’s grandmother, which immediately gives the place a personal touch and loving glow. Lo has trained under Pierre Koffmann, whose protégés include Tom Aiken and Gordon Ramsey, among a long list of reputable chefs all over the world. Bringing home skills from one of the most talented chefs… Continue reading Jean May: Loving work from the kitchen (8.9) →
Upon arrival at its ground floor entrance on Lockhart Road, there is an odd sense of awkwardness in this newly opened establishment in Wan Chai. The décor and bulky furniture all feel a tad clumsy for the limited space of the restaurant’s main dining room that seems only to accommodate five 2- or 4-seater tables.… Continue reading Yongfu: Tasty Ningbo fare, Awkward experience (8.0) →
Fu Rong follows the dozens of predecessors before it—a host of more or less authentic Sichuan and Hunan restaurants that have picked up steam in Hong Kong, with the backing of a Shanghai-based group that has had lots of success with Sichuan restaurants (under other brand names) in provinces outside of Sichuan in the mainland.… Continue reading Fu Rong: High-end, Savory Sichuan (8.2) →
Salisterra perches atop Upper House and replaces Café Gray Deluxe which closed its doors earlier this spring. The name of the restaurant literally means salt and earth in Latin, and alludes to flavors of the coast along the Mediterranean. The head chef is American born, UK-raised, Japanese-British chef Jun Tanaka, a somewhat well-known TV personality… Continue reading Salisterra: Pleasant food with a view and lots of sunshine (8.0) →
Mamoru means to protect, and in this case, it is to uphold the art and tradition of sushi making. To me, it also seems to serve as a reminder to preserve the passion for the highest quality. It sounds like an easy thing to say, but serious diners will be able to discern whether that… Continue reading Sushi Mamoru: Phenomenal (9.5) →
Our dinner at Bo Innovation was an aesthetic feast. And one with a theme that pays tribute to old Hong Kong. Each course was beautifully presented, carefully constructed, and endowed with its own meaning and story. More importantly, the food was portioned so that you would be able to try twenty different combinations of flavors… Continue reading Bo Innovation: An artsy experience paying tribute to Old Hong Kong (8.5) →
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