The Pescatarian: A heavenly supper (9.6)

Food mesmerizes me, because I see in its creativity the parallel of poetry and music. There are more or less a given number of key ingredients to work with, but an infinite number of ways to combine them. When it works out, it’s magic, no less worthy than a grand masterpiece by Bach or a… Continue reading The Pescatarian: A heavenly supper (9.6)

Andō: Solid, but lacks wow factor (8.3)

Head Chef Agustin Balbi was born in Argentina, but spent time exploring culinary techniques in Japan. One could easily tell the latter's influence by his focus on attentively adorned small plates, substantial use of raw fish and seafood delicacies as well as the combination of common South American and Japanese ingredients. The Argentinian character, however,… Continue reading Andō: Solid, but lacks wow factor (8.3)

Salisterra: Pleasant food with a view and lots of sunshine (8.0)

Salisterra perches atop Upper House and replaces Café Gray Deluxe which closed its doors earlier this spring. The name of the restaurant literally means salt and earth in Latin, and alludes to flavors of the coast along the Mediterranean. The head chef is American born, UK-raised, Japanese-British chef Jun Tanaka, a somewhat well-known TV personality… Continue reading Salisterra: Pleasant food with a view and lots of sunshine (8.0)

Roganic: Delicate flavors with a lot of zing (8.6)

I quite like Roganic. I didn't think I would. I have been to a good handful of restaurants playing with variations of nouvelle cuisine and, while I mostly walked out of those restaurants happy with my meal, there were not many that I wanted to return to as a regular. Partly that is because I… Continue reading Roganic: Delicate flavors with a lot of zing (8.6)

MEATS: Tempting menu, but services erratic (7.5)

MEATS definitely offers a tempting menu for carnivores looking to have a good time drinking and eating, but based on my experiences I wouldn't quite put it on my recommended list because of the three occasions I've been, I wasn't made to feel welcome. Pirata strives to impress with not just good food but also… Continue reading MEATS: Tempting menu, but services erratic (7.5)

Kinship: Cosmopolitan Anglo-style comfort food (7.5)

At its heart, the intention of chefs Arron Rhodes (previously at Gough’s on Gough, now closed, and at Statement) and Chris Grare (previously at Lily & Bloom, now closed) was to synthesise experience and experiment, regional and global, posh and homey. That, plus one more gimmick: farm-to-table produce (at least occasionally). From a conceptual point… Continue reading Kinship: Cosmopolitan Anglo-style comfort food (7.5)

Arcane: Lively flavors (9.0)

While I am known by friends and family to be the kind of person who sticks with the same dish at the same restaurant or at home about nine meals out of ten throughout childhood and university, I made a deliberate effort to be the exact opposite in 2015 and have stuck with that commitment… Continue reading Arcane: Lively flavors (9.0)

Cornerstone: Solid, first class offerings despite the razzmatazz (9.0)

Cornerstone's brainchild Shane Osborn is the chef behind the better known Arcane. You might also recognize him from Netflix's The Final Table, where he made it to the finals. Arcane has one Michelin star, and Cornerstone also made it to Michelin's Bib Gourmand guide. Michelin stars are hardly a foolproof guide to consistent, first-rate fare,… Continue reading Cornerstone: Solid, first class offerings despite the razzmatazz (9.0)

Grissini: Behind the times (7.6)

Grissini should be on the rota for a lot of people who like Italian food and find its location convenient. But on this visit, I am starting to feel like this is an increasingly dated restaurant that, perhaps intentionally for its existing clientele, is still clinging on a little too strongly to the past. If… Continue reading Grissini: Behind the times (7.6)

Mr Brown: Casual smoking and grilling action (7.9)

Mr Brown is a lively restaurant run by the founders behind Francis and continues the concept of a sleek menu with only a handful of dishes to ensure quality and maximum economies of scale. Brown refers to browning from grilling, and as you may have correctly guessed from the title, Mr Brown specializes in just… Continue reading Mr Brown: Casual smoking and grilling action (7.9)